January 8, 2024 - 6:00pm

An early contender for Rant of the Year comes from a thus-far anonymous British woman, who made waves on social media at the weekend. The target of her rage is a box of Quality Street — specifically, the replacement of the traditional foil wrappers with lacklustre paper. The redesign is “a travesty”, she says, adding that the manufacturers can “put their chocolates where the sun never shines”.

For all the online mirth, this isn’t a total overreaction. Though the edible part of the product remains the same, the presentation has changed for the worse. The jewel-like effect is gone and, henceforth, the festive season will be just that little bit less magical than it used to be. As comedian and writer Simon Evans points out, the product symbolises “every other incremental degradation of finish, sparkle and yes quality” that consumers have “endured lately”.

Go into any supermarket and one will find ample evidence not just of rising prices, but also other disappointments such as diminishing portion sizes (shrinkflation) and qualitative corner-cutting (skimpflation). So while shouting at confectionery might seem excessive, it isn’t just a box of chocolates we’re talking about here, but a microcosm of contemporary capitalism.

Defenders of the free-market system have always had a problem, which is that consumers are much more likely to focus on what has become worse over time than on what has improved. Capitalism has historically made a lot of things better, and continues to do so. For instance, cars have become more reliable, not to mention safer and more efficient. As for telephones, there’s no comparison between the multi-functional, mobile marvels of our own age and the analogue, dial-up devices of old. So given all those positives, why do we accentuate the negative?

It comes down to the saying “you don’t miss what you never had”. The obvious corollary is that if you do have something and it’s taken away, then you’re going to be absolutely furious about it. That’s especially the case when, like a tin of Quality Street, it’s easier to compare today’s product with yesterday’s.

To add insult to injury, businesses are using their marketing skills to make a selling point of their downgrades. For instance, the Quality Street website promotes its paper wrappers as “returning to our roots” and as being good for the environment because they’re more recyclable. Similarly, soft drinks manufacturers replace the sugar in their products with inferior-tasting artificial sweeteners while proclaiming the health benefits.

A more significant example is the property industry. Thanks to the ever-increasing cost of land, we’re paying increasingly more to live in the same places — only with less room — than our parents and grandparents. It’s arguably the most damaging downgrade of the modern age, and yet this too is sold to us as a positive.

Sky-high rents and pokey flats are promoted as “city centre living”. When a neighbourhood ceases to be affordable, then it is “up-and-coming”. If living costs are completely out of control, then never mind the impoverishment of an entire generation — just think of the investment opportunities.

Businesses probably think they’re being clever here, but they’re forgetting the bigger picture. The essential promise of the free market is ever-increasing abundance. The more they try to sell us scarcity, the closer they come to breaking the deal on which support for capitalism depends. 


Peter Franklin is Associate Editor of UnHerd. He was previously a policy advisor and speechwriter on environmental and social issues.

peterfranklin_