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No, smoking isn’t back This is the last gasp of a dying habit

For Gen Z, smoking is an aesthetic

For Gen Z, smoking is an aesthetic


August 13, 2024   5 mins

Is smoking having a renaissance? At her recent birthday party, brat du jour Charli XCX was gifted a bouquet chaotically arranged with cigarettes. Meanwhile in Paris, the Olympic golfer Charley Hull was prevented by le woke mob from enjoying her custom of breezing through the course with a cig dangling from her lips, having been criticised for signing a load of autographs with one on the go at the US Open months before. And earlier this summer, Natalie Portman and Paul Mescal were spotted puffing away outside an Islington wine bar. According to The Guardian, all this suggests that smoking is “so back”.

Every few months a celebrity is papped with a cigarette, and lifestyle columns declare that we are living through a dangerous vibe shift — that this will be the generation which finally revives one of the most surefire ways to off yourself. But these latest viral moments simply represent another passing hiccup in an unstoppable project to stub the habit out entirely. The new smoking ban, which will prevent those born in or after 2009 from ever buying cigarettes, will ensure that in 20 years, smoking will just be something quaintly associated with Dot Cotton or Krusty the Clown, an anachronistic curiosity like a monocle or a pocket watch.

Charli XCX is 32, and Charley Hull is 28. In Bishop’s Stortford and Kettering respectively, their classmates would have smoked, not vaped, behind the bike sheds — a dying breed. But surely, you splutter, cigarettes are still cooler than Elf Bars? Well, yes. In the panopticon of Gen Z life, peering at one another through the fabricating prism of social media, being an “icon” is about carefully orchestrating optical illusions, gesturing towards passing “aesthetics”. Cigarettes are, according to internet people who never go outside, “iconic”. Charli’s apparent obsession with cocaine — “bumpin’” her way through her early thirties — is precisely the same as her brand’s fixation with smoking: 100% vibes-based, and curated to be just another feature of “brat”. It is all, of course, meaningless — and whether fans have ever seen cocaine in real life is irrelevant. Smoking, coke, negroni spagliatos: these are the modern-day equivalents of carnations, pearls or a tome in an Early Modern portrait. Whether they are truly used or owned by the sitter is beside the point: they simply gesture towards coveted attributes (betrothal, chastity, learnedness respectively) and so function as pure abstractions, symbols.

“Smoking, coke, negroni spagliatos: these are the modern-day equivalents of carnations, pearls or a tome in an Early Modern portrait.”

Gen Z will only ever see smoking in this light: as a symbol of rebellion, of thinness, of stress, of whatever they like. The thousand interpretations of this humble habit owe themselves to a few smoking-motif-obsessed filmmakers, including David Lynch — who last week revealed he had not left the house in two years over concerns about contracting Covid, having ravaged his emphysema-ridden lungs over a long career measured in glowing American Spirits. Nevertheless, the damage is done: the cigarette is so irrevocably a cinematic totem — standing in variously for a gun, a penis, a poison, a panacea — that nobody can now start smoking without feeling the weight of a century of associations. And as it becomes more verboten, more dangerous, the symbolism of the cigarette grows more and more unbearably self-referential.

For new Gen Z smokers, being “iconic” is the habit’s only social appeal — and it is entirely offset by other ideological neuroses. This is a generation which is so bound by the strictures of self-censorship, so boggled by the conventions of social media, that they have begun to use the term “unalived” instead of “killed” in general conversation. They are wimps, and looking cool (the only incentive for anybody ever to have picked up their first cigarette) cannot survive this.

Besides, is vice itself cool anymore? Once, substances were era-defining. From the birth of counterculture, each decade had their corresponding drug: the Sixties has its slow insanity, its hierarchy-smashing lassitude, the wonder-filled inertia of acid and marijuana. The Seventies has its bleak heroin, its fall from innocence, a decade of dark. The Eighties was all manic extravagance, cocaine to a T. On the dubiously sticky floors of Studio 54, the fast-paced, high-cost, high-speed shit chatting of coke crystallised that era’s gaudy hedonism. The Nineties had its euphoric, crashing manias, its acid house, its MDMA. After that, house parties dabbled in micro-trends — the bath salts, the ket, the NOS — but youth culture in general had by now stabilised, fuelled by immortal alcohol and a cocktail of other things that had all come before, becoming smugly ironic. All the while, smoking limped on, a sulky vampire in the corner of every sweaty student bedroom.

Vapes have blown all of this clean out of the water. During Covid, sprawled on Power Rangers bedspreads or being stared at by ancient posters of long-gone boy bands, students who should by rights have been frying their brains in nightclubs began to dream of other possible lives. Another vision of young adulthood began to curl into shape on their TikTok feeds: one in which you might declare yourself, with a straight face, “sober curious”. I recall how, in the first tentative gatherings post pandemic, it became immediately clear that these new habits had already set in: erstwhile “legends” were now “Bristol sober” (just doing ketamine); soon-to-be ex-friends were doing dry January (zealots). Being sober at uni changed, when I was there, from totally verboten to semi-acceptable, even admirable. Club culture began to fizzle out — and with it, the vomit-swallowing teenager trying to remember which way to light a Marlboro Gold.

This shift has brought with it a sense that actually, smoking might be unappealing. Not just vibes-wise, but sensually: “I feel like I can taste their bronchitis”, says one friend, who dislikes kissing smokers (but is known to pilfer rollies himself). There is a recognition that cigarettes may not only kill you slowly in the future (they are the largest single cause of cancer in the UK) but may usher in a kind of social death — may make your clothes honk, turn your fingers yellow, fragrance your breath with eau de ashtray.

The old guard have become indignant outcasts — like in that IT Crowd sketch, aired two months after the original smoking ban came in, where Jen must brave a literal Siberia outside her office alongside the other addicts; Russian accents through chattering teeth. The image of vapes, conversely, is entirely different and wonderfully new: they are marketed as consequence-free, fresh and fruity solutions sailing straight out of techland. You can buy one fairly cheaply without knowing how to roll or having to buy a lighter, papers and filters, all the while anxiously hiding the smell from your parents. And you don’t have to like the admittedly challenging taste of burning leaves to claim camaraderie with other smokers, or for a reason to leave a dancefloor. So perfectly executed was the e-cig takeover that the number of vapoteurs has now hit an all-time high.

The minor smoking revival that we’re seeing now is simply a last bronchial gasp. Cigarettes have become subsumed in clouds of various half-hearted “aesthetics” — Anthony Bourdain sitting at a European cafe table wearing little black sunglasses; Kate Moss; ghosts from Tumblrs past. Gone is the Marlboro Man, swashbuckling his way around the West in a 10-gallon hat. For Gen Z have other options: they can vape, use the lisp-inducing abomination that is Zyn, or smugly abstain in favour of other “hyperfixations”. Only this generation could swap cigs for “journalling”.

And why shouldn’t they? Many of them have grown up around wrinkled, spluttering adults who were once slick, young smokers. I will not forget meeting a dying great aunt, Marlene, who the family called Auntie Marlboro, sparking up in her old people’s home between liquidy-lunged coughs. I was about 15, and I remember crying in front of her (she, fag in hand, was unfazed). It did not kill her in the end — on the contrary, it kept her sharp — but you couldn’t help but feel sorry for that yellowed woman in her yellowing, sunlit living room. That is, really, what smoking is about.


Poppy Sowerby is an UnHerd columnist

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Samuel Ross
Samuel Ross
1 month ago

Smoking is unhealthy (I have never smoked), but the radio jingles and short adverts from back in the day are surely some of the catchiest and cutest tunes that man has ever composed! Never fails to put a smile on my face (but not to buy a cigarette). I take it as a metaphor for all the bad, yet popular fads that one should identify and ignore.

“Winston tastes good like a cigarette should … “. 😉

Martin M
Martin M
1 month ago
Reply to  Samuel Ross

The iconic Australian brand Winfield (catchphrase “Anyhow, have a Winfield”) had such an advertising penetration that they could put up a billboard which simply said “Anyhow”, and everyone would know it was a Winfield ad.

J Bryant
J Bryant
1 month ago

Great article, thanks. Although I won’t pretend to understand all the current cultural references (what the heck is “the lisp-inducing abomination that is Zyn”?).
Unherd can be a bit middle-aged and reactionary (he says, staring into the mirror). Good to hear some younger voices.

Philip Stott
Philip Stott
1 month ago
Reply to  J Bryant

Zyn are little pouches of tobacco you keep in your mouth while the nicotine leeches out. You might be more familiar with Snus (which are similar).

MJ Reid
MJ Reid
1 month ago
Reply to  Philip Stott

And cause mouth cancer if used for any length of time… The same as chewing tobacco did!

Edward H
Edward H
1 month ago
Reply to  MJ Reid

Are you specifically on about nicotine pouches, or are you thinking of tobacco snus?

Edward H
Edward H
1 month ago
Reply to  Philip Stott

Zyn and their ilk are actually tobacco free. They are essentially teabags filled with soft plant fibres infused with nicotine and flavouring in a lab somewhere.

Michael McElwee
Michael McElwee
1 month ago

Nope. Cigarettes are delicious. Adding danger only makes them more so. They are coming back like gang busters. We’re all living too long anyway.

Brett H
Brett H
1 month ago

Living longer but not allowed any fun along the way.

Michael McElwee
Michael McElwee
1 month ago
Reply to  Brett H

Exactly.

Brett H
Brett H
1 month ago

“It did not kill her in the end — on the contrary, it kept her sharp — but you couldn’t help but feel sorry for that yellowed woman in her yellowing, sunlit living room. That is, really, what smoking is about.”
This is confusing. Smoking didn’t kill her. So what, in the opinion of the writer, is smoking about. It’s an odd example; someone living into old age, unphased by the emotions of a 15 year old (who cares. Not her.), still sharp, and dies of something unrelated to smoking. Why did Poppy feel sorry for her, what could she know at 15 what old age was about?

Philip Hanna
Philip Hanna
1 month ago
Reply to  Brett H

Huh? She said smoking was about being cool. Then went on to explain why people don’t smoke as much anymore, because it turns you into an emphysema ridden sickly person. Then used her aunt as an example. The fact that smoking didn’t kill her seems to be beside the point. What is confusing here?

Brett H
Brett H
1 month ago
Reply to  Philip Hanna

Used her aunt as an example of what?

Fafa Fafa
Fafa Fafa
1 month ago

”  The new smoking ban, which will prevent those born in or after 2009 from ever buying cigarettes, will ensure that in 20 years, [some naive statment here]”.
I hate cigarettes with a passion, it killed my mother and my sister, I’m glad that it is used less and less but that ban will ensure only the cigarettes will be contraband with a health illegal trade.

ChilblainEdwardOlmos
ChilblainEdwardOlmos
1 month ago
Reply to  Fafa Fafa

Spot on.

Martin M
Martin M
1 month ago
Reply to  Fafa Fafa

It has got to the point (here in Australia) that vaping is so constrained it is almost making people take up smoking tobacco by default.

UnHerd Reader
UnHerd Reader
1 month ago
Reply to  Fafa Fafa

Perhaps, although, I do wonder about the practicalities of being a smoker, especially a heavy smoker, if they are banned and cigarettes have to be acquired illegally. Users of other drugs don’t tend to use quite so much of them per day, and smoking is something often done in public.

Brett H
Brett H
1 month ago
Reply to  UnHerd Reader

I would think that smoking in public is rarely done these days.

Molly Barnes
Molly Barnes
1 month ago

*unfazed

Where are your editors, UnHerd?

Michael Hollick
Michael Hollick
1 month ago

That’s a very long article to have seemingly been inspired by an opinion piece in the Guardian. I got no further. Come on, UnHerd, the subscription’s pricier than a carton of gaspers – please commission something with a bit more substance.

Lancashire Lad
Lancashire Lad
1 month ago

We can then indulge, via Comments, in substance abuse.

Philip Hanna
Philip Hanna
1 month ago

It’s 5 bucks a month. I think we can take a break from shouting at each other over politics to enjoy an opinion piece here and there. Sheesh.

Martin M
Martin M
1 month ago

The new smoking ban, which will prevent those born in or after 2009 from ever buying cigarettes, will ensure that in 20 years, smoking will just be something quaintly associated with Dot Cotton or Krusty the Clown, an anachronistic curiosity like a monocle or a pocket watch“. Yeah, because people never ever ingest substances when it is illegal to do so.

Martin M
Martin M
1 month ago

Apart from a brief flirtation with the occasional Cuban cigar about 20 years ago, I have never been a smoker. I have on occasion thought about taking it up to annoy the puritans who want to go around banning enjoyable things. Still, I ended up satisfying myself by taking a lot of other things society disapproves of.

Paul Airey
Paul Airey
1 month ago

With respect. I think the child who wrote this drivel full of cool speak “vibe’s” etc. should put her smartphone down and go for a long walk. Preferably outside in the fresh air. She might find that it starts to cure her of her babbling verbose twittery.
For God’s sake get a life Poppy, and to Unherd please rid your pages of her and her kind.

Dave Canuck
Dave Canuck
1 month ago
Reply to  Paul Airey

If you don’t like her, just don’t read her, old man

Philip Hanna
Philip Hanna
1 month ago
Reply to  Dave Canuck

Seriously, what is it with this website’s subscribers being so volatile toward the writers here when the piece doesn’t fit the exact narrative they are in the mood for. Seriously weird.

Dumetrius
Dumetrius
1 month ago

Smoking is all over the place now. So I’m not sure it’s just minor.

Mark V
Mark V
1 month ago

Nah, it’s definitely back.

Floras Post
Floras Post
1 month ago

Symbols of rebellion but no actual rebellion from the most conformist generation in history. Well what to expect when you’ve all been through the 50 grand conformity factories, anxious to get today’s right answer, struggling to be a bigger teachers pet than the rest of the class and wowwying that one wrong step will destroy your future. So sad.

MJ Reid
MJ Reid
1 month ago
Reply to  Floras Post

The cost of cigarettes will stop people smoking. Most cost about £15 for 20. When I started it was 50p for 20 in 1979. When I stopped in 2014, it was £7 for 20. If you are a casual smoker, you will get by. If you are serious, then you might have to remortgage your house…

Martin M
Martin M
1 month ago
Reply to  MJ Reid

Here in Australia, the high cost of cigarettes has caused the sale of illicit (namely untaxed) tobacco (called “chop chop”) to boom.

Richard C
Richard C
1 month ago

Childishly wrong.
The UK’s idiotic smoking ban won’t work, it will only make it more attractive to the young to smoke.
The world’s axis is shifting to Asia and there, they smoke, a lot.
Overall, cigarette sales over the past decade have barely moved, certainly not disappeared.
I’ve never smoked and I don’t like it when people near me do but that doesn’t mean that wishful thinking changes reality.

Warren Trees
Warren Trees
1 month ago
Reply to  Richard C

Today’s youth are not interested in doing things that are against the grain as they have been indoctrinated more than ever in primary and secondary schools. They will be dutiful comrades.

Tyler Durden
Tyler Durden
1 month ago

Well, it’s something to do in your twenties and thirties. Later in my 20s I couldn’t even afford a packet of 20 so smoked evenmore rolling tobacco. I got using the nicotine gum and would just smoke socially. After Covid-19 and diabetes I gave up completely in my mid-40s which was a 2-year process.

Howard Ahmanson
Howard Ahmanson
1 month ago

I occasionally binge smoke, but I like Zyn and Nordic Spirit better these days. Vaping is too complicated.

UnHerd Reader
UnHerd Reader
1 month ago

Fun article, cheers poppy

UnHerd Reader
UnHerd Reader
1 month ago

Nothings cool anymore, everyone is just sitting around on their phones

Morgan Knull
Morgan Knull
1 month ago

Who is this joyless scold?!